Monday, October 23, 2006

Barbary Coast Trail (5) -- Old St. Mary’s Cathedral

Erected six years after the beginning of the Gold Rush. Towering over the corner of Grant Avenue and California Street is Old St. Mary's Cathedral, the first cathedral built in California, 1854. Just a block-and-a-half from the Chinatown Gate, Old St. Mary's also hosts a popular series of lunchtime classical chamber music concerts Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Old St. Mary's was designed by architects William Craine and Thomas England, who followed the instructions of the church's Bishop, Joseph Sadoc Alemany, to replicate a cathedral in his hometown of Vich, Spain. The new cathedral, built mostly with Chinese labor, had parapets on either flank, surmounted with embrasures and buttresses finished cut-stone pinnacles. Inside, a vaulted ceiling with groin arches rises above a Carrara marble altar imported from Rome.



The original plan included a steeple, but fear that an earthquake would send it toppling into the street led the designers to change the plans, leaving only a bell tower.

Granite, quarried in China, was used around the base of the structure to deflect rainwater, while bricks minted in New England for the outer walls came around Cape Horn as ship ballast.

In keeping with its tradition of community involvement, the church is home to several Twelve-Step groups and a vibrant gay and lesbian ministry, and holds a regular Saturday for Engaged Couples, a one-day, all-day series of presentations focusing the engaged couples' attention on the meaning of marriage from a Roman Catholic perspective.